An oven that will not heat is one of two problems: it makes no heat at all, or it heats to the wrong temperature. No heat on a gas oven usually means the bake igniter has weakened and no longer glows hot enough to open the safety gas valve, a very common and inexpensive part. On an electric oven it is a burned bake element or a control relay. Wrong temperature, meanwhile, is almost always the oven temperature sensor drifting so the control fires against a false reading.
First Checks Before You Book
- Watch a gas oven on bake: a healthy igniter glows bright orange within a minute and the gas lights.
- On an electric oven, look for a visibly broken or blistered bake element.
- Confirm the oven is not in a delay, timed-bake, or Sabbath mode.
- Use an oven thermometer to measure how far off the temperature actually is.
Notes by Brand
- Wolf: dual-fuel and gas ovens rely on a glow-bar igniter; a weak igniter that no longer opens the valve is the classic no-bake call.
- Thermador & Bosch: electric wall ovens more often show a bake-element or relay fault, and may log an F-code for a sensor.
- Miele: may display an F-code such as F11 or F14 pointing to a sensor or heating-circuit fault.
- Viking, Dacor & La Cornue: gas oven igniters and safety valves are the usual no-heat parts.
Oven-Heat Fault Guide
| What You Notice | Likely Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Gas oven will not light | Weak or failed bake igniter | Replace igniter, verify valve opens |
| Electric oven no heat | Burned bake element or control relay | Replace element or relay |
| Runs hot or cold | Drifting temperature sensor | Test resistance, recalibrate or replace |
| F-code on display | Sensor or heating-circuit fault | Diagnose code, replace faulty part |
Oven Not Reaching Temperature?
Book a visit and we will test the igniter, element, or sensor and quote the fix in writing. Diagnostic and travel fees, if applicable, are confirmed before the appointment and before repair approval.
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